Belize: Adventures on land
After a week of lounging around the beach and pool in the village of Placencia, I needed a change of scenery. So I hit the road in a rented Kia Sorento — Hello Kitty sticker included. As I headed to the mainland, I noticed a ton of development along the Placencia Peninsula. Two of every three lots have for sale/sold signs, huge homes are going in, and most of the traffic is carrying either building supplies or construction workers. It’s pretty clear the peninsula is going to look like a very different place in a few years.
After the peninsula, it’s north on the Southern Highway for another 20 minutes before the turn off to Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary itself is 520 square km but just a small portion is open for hiking, trekking and camping. I decided to tackle the Balum Trail (formerly the Antelope Trail) a 5.5 km loop with elevation of 160 meters. It’s listed as a moderate hike, but in 95 per cent humidity and 27 °C temp it was a slog. The highlight by far was the cold, clear stream and pool about 4 km into the loop. I didn’t think to bring a towel, but that didn’t stop me from disrobing and wading in — by far the highlight of the day.
I didn’t see any of the many animals that call the sanctuary home, but I did scare one creature (and vice versa!) who took off thumping through the brush when it noticed me. Maybe a tapir, anteater or deer?
A perfect place for a swim in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary.
I was thankful I paid a little extra for 4x4 as the six-mile road to the park is rough, muddy and especially slippery after the rain. On my way down, I passed a van stuck in red mud close to the edge (much too close to feel comfortable trying to nudge, push or tow the van out). A kilometre later I spotted the stranded couple and gave them a ride down to the main highway where they could get help. They were from Calgary and the young woman was born in Moose Jaw — in case you needed proof that the world is tiny. (I also had a guy from Montreal and woman from France hitching a ride too — so many Canadians!)
Once I got a taste of swimming in jungle pools, I set out to find more hikes that include water. So the next day I drove to the Billy Barquedier National Park and hiked up to the waterfall. It was about three km, but again super slippery on the steep parts of the trail and the rocks leading up to the waterfall. But so worth it to swim in such a pristine setting.
And finally, I decided to ditch the hike at the St Herman’s Blue Hole National Park and go straight for a swim. This is the only park I met anyone else - probably because it’s much more accessible than the others - and where I spent the longest in the water. I could have stayed for hours if it weren’t for the fish nibbling on my legs!
xx Rachel
The inland blue hole — look closely and you can see the curious (hungry?) fish.
The waterfall at the end of the hike at Billy Barquedier National Park.
The Kia was meant for me.
I stopped at one of the many small roadside stalls on the Hummingbird Highway to pick up some ice cold, fresh coconut water, green plums (!) and apples.