Berlin: City of Good Vibes
“You are crazy, my child. You must go to Berlin.”
-Franz von Suppe
Berlin has this everyone’s-welcome-and-anything-goes vibe. It’s the blend of eras in the architecture, the diversity of the people and cuisine, and the eclectic mixes of art, style and fashion. The huge number of gardens, parks and forests helps too. All in all it’s a city where there’s no need to feel self-conscious and you’ll never be bored.
I say spend as much time as you can in Berlin. Wander the streets, watch the people and soak in those good vibes. But if you’ve only got a few days, you can make the most of them with these top picks!
Let’s start with what every visitor should see:
Learn about the people who died trying to cross into West Berlin at the Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Str.
Berlin Wall Memorial. This open-air historical site and memorial features the last piece of the Berlin Wall with the ‘death strip’ – a strip of sand between the two main barriers of the wall where order-to-shoot stood until April 1989. Don’t bother with the cheesy Checkpoint Charlie down the road. Between the visitor and documentation centre, and viewing platform, it’s easy to spend several hours at the Berlin Wall Memorial.
Topography of Terror. Housed in a former headquarters of the SS, the permanent exhibit at the Topography of Terror tells the story of the crimes committed by the Gestapo, SS and other state police under the Third Reich. There’s a lot to take in and it’s really well presented. I spent 3+ hours here and could have easily doubled that.
The Reichstag Building. Now home to the federal parliament and open to visitors (you’ll need to book your time slot ahead of time). Exploring the dome with an audio guide provides a solid overview of the country from the late 19th century to today.
The Jewish Museum. The building itself is stunning and the architecture plays a powerful role in the experience. If you make time to visit the historic sites of WWII, be sure to also increase your knowledge and understanding of Jewish Culture and Tradition at Europe’s largest Jewish Museum.
If you’re looking for something less traditional, might I recommend you:
There’s just general silliness all around Spreepark located north of the Plänterwald in the of district Treptow-Köpenick.
Visit Spreepark. This old, abandoned amusement park is a delight. Walk through old clown cars, pose under the rickety ferris wheel and take a closer look at the cat-themed rollercoaster. It’s creepy, fun and great for the ‘gram! Some folks break in but I did the tour for €15.
Take a street art/graffiti tour. The artist who toured me around on foot seems to be out of the business now, but there’s several other guides available. My tour covered some of the most famous works of art, different techniques used, the general etiquette of street art culture, and tips for understanding what you’re looking at. Plus, it’s a great opportunity to see some of the courtyards, back streets and hidden places where street art thrives.
Enjoy a free performance at the Berlin Philharmonic. COVID-19 has put a pause on the free Wednesday concerts at 1 pm, but they’re bound to start up again soon. Folks of all stripes grab a piece of floor in the foyer and take a break from their hectic day to soak in live music by some of Berlin’s finest musicians. Check the schedule before you head out.
Drink at Hops & Barley. Craft beer your thing? Hops & Barley is just the place to settle in and enjoy a pilsner, wheat and dark beer – or two. While you’re in Friedrichshain definitely plan to explore some of the great bars, clubs and eateries in the area.
If you - like me - have just foggy childhood memories of the fall of the Berlin Wall, then you’ll want to do a deeper dive on all things GDR. Let these recs be your guide:
Tranenpalast. Called The Palace of Tears for all the emotional goodbyes between East Berliners before they travelled to the West. This is a chance to take in personal stories and walk the footsteps of crossing oppressive border control. The museum is free, the audio guide is free – just go.
DDR museum. This is an interactive museum about everyday life in the Eastern Bloc featuring different products and pop culture artifacts. The interactive part means it’s also pretty popular with kids even in the off season – so keep that in mind when planning your visit.
The Stasi Museum. Located in the former HQ of the GDR’s Ministry of State Security this museum is less about life in the GDR and more about the spy craft, propaganda and weapons of the Stasi. The offices of ministerial staff on the second floor remain untouched since January 1990 when members of the public took the building over from the State.
xx Rachel
Brandenburg Gate at Pariser Platz.
Abandoned Ferris wheel at Spreepark (formerly Kulturpark).
Potsdamer Platz at night.
Up and close at the long-forgotten, cat-themed roller coaster at Spreepark.