Naoshima: Japan’s Art Island
Yayoi Kusama’s black dotted yellow pumpkin on Naoshima.
If you’re looking for a break from the tourist bustle of larger Japanese cities, consider the island of Naoshima.
It’s small and easy to navigate.
It features stunning examples of Tadao Ando architecture.
It’s home to works of art by Yayoi Kusama, James Turrell, Claude Monet and Walter De Maria.
It’s safe and the people are lovely.
Exterior of I♥︎湯 — an art facility where visitors are actually able to take a bath!
I visited Naoshima and its sister island Teshima in October 2018. The cool temps of the Seto Inland Sea were a welcome change from the sweltering heat of Kyoto and Tokyo that year.
What first caught my attention about Naoshima was an image of Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin with black dots set against a stunning sea view. Turns out, there was much more on Naoshima to keep my attention!
Chichu Art Museum – This is the absolute highlight of Naoshima. The building is a gem worth the $24 CAD admission itself, but my other favourites are:
Seeing Monet’s Water Lilies bathed in natural light that filters down throughout the gallery space. The five massive pieces look like how I imagine Monet saw the water lilies scene himself.
Of the three James Turrell installations at Chichu, the perception-shifting experience of Open Field is surreal. I won’t spoil it by explaining the illusion but it’s so beautiful we did it twice.
Art House Project – These six art houses are scattered throughout the Honmura area. Each features a different artist and concept. For the cost of 1050 Yen (about $12 CAD) we visited all six of the art houses. The highlight of which is Minamidera which was designed by Tadao Ando to house a James Turrell light installation that provides another awe-inspiring experience.
Teshima Art Museum – Technically this is on another island, but access is easy via the ferry and worth the journey. The building is shaped like a water droplet with two oval-shaped cut outs that allow nature into the space. Droplets of water emerge from the floor and interact with each other and the elements. I could have spent all day here.
Our yurt was situated between the woods and the beach — a beautiful place to wake up each morning.
Where to stay: I love yurts, so I couldn’t turn down the option of a staying at Tsutsuji-so. We booked the yurt nearest the beach for about $100 CAD per night (sleeps 4). It’s a very short walk to nearby bathrooms and showers. A bonus is the bus stop is out front the complex to take you either in the direction of the Miyanoura Port or the Chichu Art Museum.
If you’ve got the cash, consider splurging for the opportunity to stay at the Oval. This stunning hotel was designed by Tadao Ando and is set underground to respect the local environment, but still has amazing views. It will however set you back about $365 CAD a night.
Other info:
The buses on the island are convenient and easy to navigate, but keep in mind they’re used by tourists and residents alike. Please respect the locals by keeping your luggage to a minimum as to not take up extra seats/room.
There are many stray cats on Naoshima and Teshima. They are in rough shape and many appear to be starving or injured. As an animal rescuer volunteer, I found this to be incredibly hard to see. So, prep yourself for feeling helpless in the face of suffering or consider rescuing a cat (Japan Cat Network has good advice/resources on that) or bringing along cat food or other supplies for them.
We didn’t have a chance to visit I♥︎湯 (aka Naoshima Bath) but if the exterior of the building is anything to go on, it’s bound to be a one-of-a-kind experience!
xx Rachel
Keep your eyes open — there’s something to spy around every corner on Naoshima.
Frog and Cat (1990) by artist Karel Appel located in a free, outdoor garden along with several other colourful pieces.
Beautiful seaside beach views are on offer along with the island’s many art sculptures and installations.
Cafe Konichiwa offers a cute, cozy interior to enjoy tea, coffee or light meal. There are no strictly veggie restaurants on the island, but most places offer a veg option. Plus, there’s always 7-11 which offers a whole other food experience in Japan!