Patagonia: What not to miss
View from Argentina’s Ruta 40 at sunset
Patagonia is huge — over 1 million km² or about the size of the province of Ontario — so even after 30 days in the region I could easily fill 30 more. But not everyone has four to five weeks to spend in Patagonia, so here are my top picks for the region that could reasonably be tackled in a three week holiday.
The mirador overlooking El Chalten
El Chalten, Argentina. I was distracted when I first arrived in El Chalten — coasting on an empty gas tank will do that. But I do remember thinking, well, if I have to hike a few kilometres into town for gas, there’s nowhere more scenic to do it!
The town is situated at the base of two mountains — Torre and Fitz Roy — and accommodating tourists is the main industry. Tourist towns aren’t often my jam, but El Chalten has a different vibe. Despite the constant turnover of visitors, the town has a strong sense of community. My theory is that it comes from a shared singular purpose — if you’re in El Chalten, you’re there to hike. And maybe to enjoy hot food and cold beer in one of the many cervezerias after a long day in the mountains. And then to repeat for as many days as you can!
Puerto Natales on an overcast evening
Puerto Natales, Chile. This charming city is about 100 km from Torres del Paine National Park making it the obvious home base for exploring the park. It’s a port city and the perfect place to catch a boat to explore the Patagonian fjords. Mountains on the horizon, towering trees throughout town and moody ocean views make for the most scenic walks along the water front no matter the weather. It’s a super walkable city with a great selection of restaurants, pubs and cafes and a decent supermarket if you prefer cooking at home.
There’s plenty of views like this in Municipal Llao Llao Park near Bariloche — you’ll just be sharing them with plenty of others
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina. There’s a lot to like about Bariloche. There’s a ton of craft beer — including Cerveza Patagonia’s taproom with fun indoor/outdoor spaces to relax against a beautiful backdrop. There are plenty of hikes nearby that can be accessed by bus or car. And the place is famous for its chocolate and Swiss-style architecture. It’s the biggest city on this list with about 130,000 residents and a lot of urban sprawl — so it lacks the charm of the other towns I’ve visited, but does have the robust tourism infrastructure that comes with a larger center.
Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park
El Calafate, Argentina. If you’re a glacier enthusiast, this is the town for you! You can trek on glaciers, kayak around glaciers, cruise on glacier lakes, visit the glacier museum, and even have a drink chilled with glacier ice. Listening to the Perito Moreno Glacier creak and groan while watching for chunks to break off and fall into the lake is an unique experience and strangely addicting. I kept telling myself I’d leave after the next calving, but then once it happened I thought ‘oh just one more!’
Mylodon Cave Natural Monument is one of many sights just off Ruta del Fin del Mundo
Ruta del Fin del Mundo. Chile is the southernmost country in the world which explains the route’s name — the End of the World Route. And the dramatic landscapes and gusting winds definitely make it feel like you’re at the end of the world. The route is well travelled with lots of places to pull over to check out the views and wildlife. I recommend flying into Punta Arenas, renting a car at the airport and then starting the drive to Puerto Natales.
Ruta 40 offers up a huge variety of landscapes which makes for a spectacular drive
Ruta 40. This is the longest route in Argentina spanning over 5,000 km. Sections are unpaved, services are few and far between, and there aren’t many cars on some legs, but nothing beats the adventure of being so isolated in such a vast expanse of land. Just be sure to plan your stops carefully as to not run out of fuel along a desolate stretch of road!
xx Rachel