Reykjavik: A delightful, dark Christmas
Travelling at Christmas is often considered to be an all-around bad idea. And I’ve been to some destinations where that’s the case, but it doesn’t hold true for Iceland.
Christmas in Iceland is beautiful, relaxing and dark. That’s because in December you’re in for just four short hours between sunrise and sunset. But four hours of daylight is an ideal window for exploration, and the remaining dark hours are perfect for:
Iceland offers a great selection of Jola Bjor to help get in the Christmas spirit.
Cocooning up in the warmth of a local bar chatting with friendly locals.
Curling up with some Icelandic Jola Bjor (Christmas beer) while reading up on local Christmas legends.
Relaxing while bathing in one of the plentiful geothermal pool.
Hunting for and watching the stunning northern lights.
Feeling festive as you shop and people watch along Laugavegur as locals and tourists alike prepare for the holidays.
Taking in all the sparkling lights that adorn most buildings and homes.
Besides the hours of darkness, Icelandic Christmas also has some pretty dark lore. And once you know about it, you’ll see the figures popping up all over the city. My favourites are:
It’s hard not to feel festive in Reykjavik with views like this typical Icelandic home.
The Yule Cat. I first spotted the mean-looking cat on a carton of milk which led me down an Icelandic Christmas wormhole. Turns out this giant, fierce feline is known to eat any children who don’t get new clothing before Christmas.
Gryla the Christmas Witch. This old ogress dates back to the 13th century. She lives up in the mountains coming down to eat naughty children – and has even eaten one or two of her own husbands.
The Yule Lads. In the 18th century Icelandic parents were banned from using the Yule Lads to scare their children, so they’re more mischievous than scary these days. Now, they leave candy in shoes for good Icelandic children and fill the shoes of bad children with rotting potatoes. All over central Reykjavik you’ll find projections of the Yule Lads like Sausage Swiper, Door Slammer and Window Peeper — see if you find them all!
So what to do with those few hours of daylight? No worries there. The natural beauty of Iceland will fill those bright hours with ease. Some of the top highlights in and around Reykjavik, include:
Quickly changing weather makes for dramatic vistas that photos don’t do justice.
The Golden Circle. This 300-km route features three main attractions: Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area and Gullfoss waterfall. All are worth the visit and there’s plenty of stunning vistas along the drive to stop and admire too.
The Blue Lagoon. Worth experiencing but was also incredibly busy on Christmas Day. Getting through the queue is the worst part but once you’re in the lagoon itself it’s much less busy.
Walking tour of Reykjavik. I took a lovely tour with ‘I ♡ Reykjavik’ and learned so much about life, history and culture of Iceland from the guide Auður. So I am sad to report that company is now defunct. I can’t recommend a company to use, but a walking tour is worth doing if you can find a good one.
Know before you go:
Road conditions in Iceland change quickly and can be slick in the winter. Growing up on the Canadian prairies I drive a lot in winter conditions, but even I took it slow. If you’re not a skilled, confident winter driver, there are many tour groups that will make touring around stress free.
Christmas Eve is the big holiday in Iceland so everything is closed. But some bars and restaurants open on Christmas Day. I had a perfect Christmas in the Big Lebowski bar drinking white Russians (pre-vegan days), watching holiday movies projected onto the wall as the snow swirled outside the windows. It was holiday magic.
Debit and credit cards are king in Reykjavik and cash is rarely used so don’t bother taking out wads of cash or purchasing ahead of your trip.
I don’t buy wool anymore but I did back when I visited Iceland and given the chilly weather both there and at home in Canada, I decided to buy a Lopapeysa sweater. If you’re going to make this purchase, definitely visit the Handknitting Association of Iceland for a quality, local-made sweater. Plus – they will measure you and make any adjustments you’d like. The range of sizes is great – up to about a 4X or 5X. You can also have one custom made.
Alcohol isn’t available in supermarkets like in some countries. Rather, you’ll need to visit the government-owned shops to pick up your beer, wine and spirits.
xx Rachel
Geyser geothermal area on the Golden Circle route at sunset — about 3:30 p.m.
The Blue Lagoon is popular with tourists for a reason. It’s busy, expensive but totally worth experiencing.
Grotta Island is a great place to wander about during low tide and is a popular spot for watching the northern lights.
Two Yule Lads and carollers add to cheery experience all around central Reykjavik.