Sal: A wind-whipped island

Sal Island is one of 10 islands that make up the country Cape Verde. Located in the north Atlantic Ocean it’s just 1800 km from the equator. You may be thinking lush and tropical but Sal Island is actually one of the driest countries in the world. Hot, dry winds whip in from the Sahara and create desert-like conditions on the island.

The high winds mean the island is a playground for water sports like wind surfing, kite surfing and sailing. Plus, there’s opportunities for kayaking, paddle boarding, snorkelling, scuba diving and surfing. I was hoping to finish up my PADI Open Water Diver Certificate during my stay, but I ended up getting COVID-19 and the accompanying cough and congestion made it impossible to dive. Luckily, resting alone on the beach is just what I needed to recover!

Once I was feeling better and tested negative, I was able to get out and explore. The highlights include:

Surf and sand. Okay, this one is obvious but the sand is super soft and water is warm and the most beautiful colours. Toss in a book and consistently sunny weather and it’s an ideal relaxation recipe.
The Blue Eye (Buracona). This is an underwater cage that when illuminated with the sunlight creates a magical looking blue eye. You’ve got to time your visit just right to get the full effect — a sunny day between 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. is your best bet. If the water is calm, you can also swim, snorkel and scuba here too (just make arrangements with a local dive shop).
Visit the Lemon Sharks. These easygoing sharks hang out in aptly named Shark Bay where the water is extra warm from the black lava rock. You can walk (bring or rent water shoes there) with the smaller sharks (2-3’) and keep your eyes open for the their big counterparts out a little deeper. They grow up to 11’ and it’s very cool to watch them interact with each other. Bet you won’t get through the experience without someone belting out the lyrics to Baby Shark!
Float in a salt water crater. Salt was once a huge export from the island. That ramped down in the ‘80s so now what remains is largely just for tourists. The salt pan has very high salinity and you basically float right on top!
Wander the streets of Santa Maria. The colourful houses and shops are interesting to explore and photograph. I did find that as a single woman I received a lot of unwanted attention that became very irritating. I don’t want to malign Santa Maria or Cape Verde, but I want to be honest about the level of street harassment I experienced. The result was that I ended up sticking close to my rental apartment and the same nearby beach each day where I could find peace.

Know before you go:

One week is plenty. If you’re into water sports, then you’ll have plenty to fill your time and could consider a longer stay. Otherwise, I think one week is plenty of time to check out the island’s sights, wander Santa Maria and relax on the beach.
Travel between islands in Cape Verde is challenging. At the time of writing, the ferry schedule is released just a week ahead of time and many of the direct routes weren’t available. It sounds like this is because of the lack of tourists during the pandemic so routes may be added again in the coming months. There are flights between islands and need to be booked at least three weeks in advance as they sell out.
Loggerhead sea turtles nest June to October. I missed seeing them but if you could plan your trip around their nesting season it would be incredible to witness.
Humpback whales are plentiful in March and April. I lucked out and saw multiple humpback breaches while hanging out at a beach bar. But if you want to be more certain about catching a glimpse of these huge creatures, there are whale watching tours that leave from Boa Vista Island.
Consider renting a car. There are tour companies that will take you to all the island’s sights in one day. But if you prefer going at your own pace and having your space, I really recommend renting a car. It’s much nicer than being jammed into a van for hours.
There’s a lot of stray dogs. In the past, local authorities culled dogs not wearing collars. Now, some ex-pats put collars on any stray dog they see so those dogs avoid the same fate. So don’t assume collared dogs have owners. Luckily, it’s not too hot or too cold on the island but I did buy and carry pet food to make sure they dogs I met could at least have a full belly.
Beaches near the resorts are better. Most of the resorts are west of Santa Maria and there the water is more vibrant, there’s no sea grass and the sand is soft. As you get closer to town and then to the east of town the beaches the rocks and sea grass increase. Still, I preferred the beaches east of town as they were more private with fewer interruptions from folks selling items, soliciting donations, etc.

Cape Verde is very popular with tourists from Northern Europe — I met many Germans and Danish folks (menus and programming are even offered in German). And I can see why — it’s close and cheap flights are offered regularly. I don’t regret visiting the island, but I likely wouldn’t visit again unless I was situated more permanently in Europe and needed a quick hot weather escape.

xx Rachel