Tallinn: A jewel on the Baltic

Women shop at Balti Jamaica Turg a market in Tallinn, Estonia. Shoppers mingle between rows of colourful fruits and vegetables.

I visited Tallinn on the word of a friend. She talked it up a lot. I started to wonder how it could possibly live up to the hype. Well, I’ve come and gone and can easily say Tallinn exceeded my expectations. It has so many aspects that I love in a city:

  • Beautifully-preserved old town with fascinating history

  • Plenty of trees and green space

  • Rejuvenated and repurposed industrial areas

  • Solid veggie/vegan restaurants

  • Family-friendly and accessible port/harbour area

  • Compact and walkable with decent public transit

Ready to move to Tallinn? Me too! But if you’re only able to visit, here’s what I recommend:

  • Explore Linnahall for the Soviet architecture and history. This facility was built for the 1980 Olympics. It’s since fallen into disrepair. So why visit? Brutalist architecture, street art and views of the sea.

  • Drink beer at Koht. This was a rec from a local and he wasn’t wrong, so I feel obligated to pass it forward. It’s a cozy little bar with a fireplace and an amazing selection of craft beer. Plus, bartenders who know their stuff. Good vibes all around!

  • Eat supper at Vegan Restoran V. First off, make reservations. I listened as dozens of people were turned away during my two meals because there were no available tables. It’s so good that I even say allow yourself two meals to experience all the unique and delicious menu has to offer.

  • Shop at Balti Jaama Turg. Fresh fruit and veg draw me in like a moth to a flame, but there’s also antiques, vintage clothing and restaurants. Grab a coffee and wander.

  • Have lunch at Rohe Kohvik. This is right across from the Balti Jaama Turg market so it makes a great place to take a break from shopping. The food is fresh and wholesome — and they offer great rhubarb sparkling wine that I still crave!

  • Get Estonian-made goods at Telliskivi Creative City. During the Soviet era this area was a locomotive repair yard. Now, it’s home to cafes, bars, restaurants, shops, playgrounds, festivals, flea markets, concerts and theatre. I found beautiful, handmade clothing for my newborn nieces here — and some earrings for myself, of course.

  • Appreciate the trendy urban area of the Rotermann Quarter. The quarter has almost as many historically valuable buildings as Tallinn’s old town. So you can feel cultured while you lunch and shop amongst historic structures.

  • Leave plenty of time to wander Old Town’s streets. I rarely tire of exploring scenic cities. Around every corner is a new, pretty scene which provides a welcome surge of dopamine. I think those dopamine hits are a big reason I love to travel so much.

There are a lot of great cities around the Baltic Sea. Copenhagen, Gdansk, Riga, Stockholm and Helsinki come to mind. It’d be a great idea to pair Tallinn with one or two other cities for a diverse taste of the region. I may just do this myself some day very soon!

xx Rachel

Craft beer heaven at Koht in Tallinn’s old town.

Tallinn’s photogenic old town oozes charm.

Soak in the Escher-esque vibes of the brutalist Linnahall.

One restaurant part of the Telliskivi Creative City complex.

Leave the high heels at home for your visit to Tallinn!

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